Roller garage doors

A roller garage door has its lath (or slat) coiling around a drum that sits above the garage opening. The compact assembly of the coiling lath means that nothing intrudes above or is protruding from the garage. This unique characteristic of roller doors accounts for their popularity for short driveways and garages integral to the house.

This is part of Garage Doors. The other domestic kinds are up-and-over, sectional, side-hinged, and side-sliding.

Features of a roller door

A sectional door takes up the full depth of the door at the garage ceiling. An up-and-over swings outward and then lifts. A roller garage door, takes up only the height of the garage door opening. Inside the garage, the ceiling is completely clear. Outside the drive is completely clear from the moment the door starts moving.

A roller door is susceptible to having a lower thermal performance. The sectional door lath (or panel) has a thicker cross section that can accommodate more insulating foam. The roller doors have lath sections that are typically in the range of 55-77mm tall, 18-22mm thick. In a detached garage, this is not a concern. However, if the garage is under a bedroom, a sectional door is usually a better choice.

Insulated vs single-skin lath

Two distinct product categories sit under “roller garage door”.

Single-skin aluminium lath is the entry level option. This is a single skin of aluminium which is mostly pre-painted and has no thermal core. Lightweight and economical. Adequate for a storage garage for your lawnmower. The U-value is poor and the door makes a tinny noise with the rain. Price band is approximately £700–£1,300 fitted.

Insulated double-skin lath has 2 skins of aluminium or steel and a thermal core of Polyurethane foam. The lath section is taller (usually 77mm), the noise level is reduced, and the U-value improves. These are the most commonly used insulated double-skin roller doors in a domestic setting in the UK. Price band is approximately £1,200–£2,500 fitted depending on the size and specification of the motor.

If the garage is attached to the house the insulated option is the logical choice. If the garage is detached and is unheated then the single skin option is adequate.

Drum housing — internal or boxed

Drum housing is the casing above the door which contains the coil. There are three common configurations:

Internal drum, which is fitted behind the lintel inside the garage. This gives the cleanest look from outside as nothing is visible above the door. It needs an internal headroom of approximately 300–450mm depending on the door height, above the opening.

External boxed, where the drum is visible on the front of the building above the opening. It is used when there is not sufficient internal headroom for a hidden drum. Some people don’t like the look but this is the only option in certain installs. This can be powder-coated to match the door.

Built-on, where the drum is behind the opening but is inside a partial enclosure. This is a middle-ground option.

You don’t have control over the design; that’s determined by the structure. Low lintels or roof structures over openings mean you’ll have external boxed. Always double check before you decide on a specific look.

Manual vs. Electric

For openings over about 7 feet (2134 mm) wide, a roller garage door is almost always electric. There are manual roller doors for narrower openings, but they’re a pain to put up with because of heavy construction and lack of spring support; manual electric doors are a non-issue above a certain size for most installers.

Electric roller motors come in two styles:

An internal tubular motor is a silent, compact motor located in the drum. It is the standard for most residential projects and is powered by a control box located nearby.

An external side-mounted motor uses a chain or belt to drive the drum from the side. This type is used for larger or commercial-grade projects, or when a tubular motor can’t meet a power requirement. This style is bulkier, but is more easily repaired.

Remote controls are standard. Smartphone control means you’ll have to buy a second module to add it to the side. If the power fails, you can manually pull a safety-release cord that allows you to lift the door by hand.

Sizes and Limits

Standard single roller doors come in sizes from 2100 mm × 2100 mm up to approximately 3000 mm × 3000 mm. When a door is wider than 3 m, the weight of the curtain and the wind load requires a more expensive motor and a heavier drum. Most residential installations are between 2.1 m and 2.7 m wide.

Standard manufacturers usually allow a maximum width of around 5m before the installation becomes a commercial-grade product. If the opening width is greater than this, sectional doors or sliding-folding doors are likely to be a better solution.

What It Costs

Estimated prices in the UK for 2026:

  • Single-skin manual roller doors (small openings only): £700-£1,000
  • Insulated, mid-range, electrically operated, single doors: £1,400-£2,000
  • Insulated, electrically operated, single doors from higher-end manufacturers: £2,200-£3,000
  • Insulated, electrically operated, double or oversized doors: £2,800-£4,500
  • Premium-brand doors with smart controls and finish upgrades: £3,500-£5,500+

The installation usually costs £300-£500, and the survey is non-negotiable. A roller door fitted to the wrong reveal type or with the wrong lintel detail will fail quickly.

Common Pitfalls

Purchasing single-skin lath for an integral garage. The interior of the garage will be cold, there will be significant noise transfer, and your heating bill will increase. Insulated lath may be more expensive to install but will save you more in the long run.

Underestimating the depth of the drum housing. If the survey makes this error, either the installation won’t fit or will require structural alterations.

Choosing a color that does not match the front of the house. Rollers are visible, especially the boxed housing, and a poor color match is a permanent installation.

Not considering the warranty for the motor. Domestic roller motors usually come with a standard 2-year warranty. Some companies provide 5-year motor warranties and 10-year curtain warranties. It is worthwhile to review this prior to ordering.

A properly engineered insulated roller can last between 15 to 20 years in household applications. Among the components of the insulated roller, the laths are the most durable and last the longest, while the motor, the springs, and the seals require more frequent servicing than the curtain itself. Most installations only require annual lubrication of the side guides and the occasional inspection of the safety brake every few years.